Timber Cladding Made Simple: Boards, Fixings and Finishes

Timber cladding is a warm and natural way to finish your home extension, garden room or outbuilding. It’s something you can easily tackle with some basic skills and tools, and will protect the structure for years to come. The key to making it last, and to look good as the years go by, is to find the right profile and species of timber.

What is a feathered board?

Featheredge boards are thin at one edge and thick at the other. So, when fixed next to each other, they overlap neatly. The boards are fixed with the thin edge at the bottom, thereby allowing the water to shed downwards. For many years this method has been used for fencing and sheds. It is also used for walls to achieve an rustic and traditional look. The boards are fixed to allow some movement and the fixings are partially hidden by the overlap.

Where to look

For a wide choice of widths, lengths and treatments, browse the range of featheredge cladding on offer.

Choosing the timber

Spruce and larch are the usual options for wall boards for houses and outbuildings. Larch has a natural resistance to decay and will weather to a soft silver grey, spruce can be pressure treated to provide a cheaper and longer lasting option that will take paint well. Ask whether the boards are planed or rough sawn. Rough sawn boards give a more rustic look, while planed will take a stain more evenly and provide a smoother finish. Make sure the boards are well seasoned, as these will be much less likely to twist after they are fixed in place.

Preparing the wall

Timber cladding should always be fixed to a wall with a ventilated cavity. Attaching vertical battens to the wall creates the cavity and allows air to circulate behind the boards to help moisture evaporate. A breather membrane behind the battens, along with insect mesh at the base and top of the cavity helps keep pests from the cavity, and also helps the membrane stay in place. A good cavity is the single most effective way to help cladding last for decades.

Fixing the boards

Begin at the bottom, setting the first board slightly proud, to allow the bottom edge of the cladding to clear the ground. Overlap the boards by 25mm and fix with stainless steel, or other corrosion resistant, nails or screws. Ordinary steel will rust and discolour the timber. Do not nail both boards at the overlap, as this will cause splitting. Leave an allowance for movement.

Finishing and caring for it

There are many options when considering how to treat your timber cladding. You can choose to leave the boards untreated and let them weather naturally. You can also protect them with a stain, oil or paint. The best protection is given with a coat of treatment applied to all sides of the board including the back and cut ends. Most finishes need to be reapplied every 2 to 3 years, so gently wash the cladding, look for any defects, and treat them promptly. With a little planning and forethought, timber cladding can last many years.

Common mistakes to avoid

Most issues are due to lack of proper ventilation. Moisture becomes trapped, causing boards to rot and trim to decay. People also use the wrong screws and nails. Using black, corrosive screws leave unsightly black marks that grow with time. Sealing the cut ends of the boards is important. Those end cuts are the fastest absorbing areas of the boards and should be sealed to prevent moisture absorption. Taking these little measures makes the cladding look presentable for years.